Everybody’s Truffling @ Must Winebar – Highgate

Ever since having possibly the best meal of my life at Maison de la Truffe in Paris while holidaying in Europe, I have been in love with the aroma and taste of truffles.  Lately in Perth, truffles have been in the forefront of the Perth food scene with the WA truffle season about to wind up.  Not to be outdone, Must Wine Bar had a special truffle menu the week for their “Fungi Forage” event.  Must sourced their truffles this year from Al Bakers in Manjimup.So on this very cool Perth winter night, my partner and I went to Must Winebar in Highgate for a dinner with some truffle goodness.  We were quickly seated and my partner chose the sparkling water to accompany us through the dinner.  Menus were presented along with the Fungi Forage menu.  With some great options to choose from I decided to go with a starter of scallops on pork belly.  My main I chose from the regular menu which was the angel hair pasta with crab.  Don’t get me wrong here, there were some nice truffle options and I was almost swayed to choose the butter sirloin with truffle mash.  My partner had the chicken liver parfait with truffle for a starter and went for more truffle goodness for the main by choosing the boudin blanc with truffle.
Scallops on Pork Belly with Truffle Sauce
Scallops on Pork Belly with Truffle Sauce
The starters arrived in short time which was good for a hungry pair of foodies with a penchant for truffle.  My starter looked great, three scallops on pork belly with a truffle sauce served in half-shells.  My first bite involved me carving a slice right down the middle of the stack to taste all the elements in one.  Everything was tasty but from then on I decided to eat the scallop separately from the pork belly.  The scallop was cooked perfectly with a nice char taste.  The pork belly was very tender and the truffle sauce was divine.  The truffle sauce was placed on the bottom of the stack between the half-shell and pork so most of it was left on the shell, which was a shame.  With this knowledge, each subsequent bite involved using my cutlery to put as much sauce on the pork belly as possible.  To not let the remaining truffle sauce go to waste, I used the tasty Must baguette (served as a precursor to the meal) to mop up the rest of it up.  It was a great way to finish the starter course.  I would have liked more sauce and if it was placed between the pork belly and scallop, the dish would have been perfect.  That way the truffle would have left its trademark on the scallop and the pork but I do understand if the intention was to have all the elements in one bite.

I invoked the partner clause to try some of her chicken liver parfait.  The parfait was served with a thin slice of black truffle on top.  The parfait had a nice texture and flavour and you could taste a bit of the truffle vying for attention in there.

After a brief intermission, our mains arrived. Noticeably the strong aroma of garlic filled our noses as my angel hair pasta with crab, chilli and garlic was placed on the table in front of me. The pasta itself was cooked very well and reminded me more of fresh wonton noodles than of pasta. The chilli, garlic and cream gave the dish some punch and richness. Thankfully I had ordered a delightful French pear cider which helped me cut through the richness of the dish. There was a generous portion of crab meat in the dish too. A dish I wouldn’t hesitate to order again!
Angel-hair Pasta with Crab, Chilli and Garlic
Angel-hair Pasta with Crab, Chilli and Garlic

Invoking partner privileges again, I sampled a slice of her boudin blanc.  The sausage was nice and was very soft.  My personal preference would be a bit more resistance in the sausage but I’m no connosieur of boudin blancs.

Chicken and Truffle Boudin Blanc
Chicken and Truffle Boudin Blanc

There is a tried and tested way of removing garlic from one’s palate and that is to have dessert.  From the Fungi Forage menu, we decided to share the dessert offered which was truffle ice cream with a truffle crème brûlée.  The ice cream packed a heap of truffle flavour, but unfortunately there was quite a bit of ice crystallisation in there so it wasn’t as creamy as other truffle ice creams I have had in the past.  Small bits of dark chocolate was also inter-dispersed in the ice cream which was a nice touch.  The crème brûlée looked a bit ugly it tasted very good, especially the slightly burnt toffee.  Under the custard was a truffle paste, however that didn’t impart much of a truffle taste.  Maybe it was a consequence of having the ice cream which packed heaps of truffle flavour.  A Vittoria coffee rounded my dessert off which was OK but not on the same level as my favourite Fiori coffee.

Truffles aren’t cheap (and so isn’t seafood) so the meal for both of us came to just under $200.  Overall the food was very good, the service was not bad and I’m sure we will be back.  Not to mention that Must is my partner’s favourite Perth restaurant.

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